London's Rebellious Teddy Girls Inspired The "Handsome Beauty" Of Emilia Wickstead's AW24 Collection | British Vogue:
Emilia Wickstead's AW24 collection was inspired by the photographs of Garry Winogrand and Ken Russell, capturing the essence of rebellious teddy girls in East London and their glamorous Italian immigrant counterparts in America.
The collection features a tapestry of archetypes, with sequinned bias-cut dresses, oversized Prince of Wales check tailoring, and puffy-floral jacquard trousers and polo tops. The look is more laid-back and languid, with streamer-fringed dresses and leather pleated skirts, and a collaboration with British heritage shoemaker Grenson on the Grenda loafer.
The Grenda loafer features a trailing elongated tassel, fringing, and a welted platform sole, referencing both men's and women's styles in Grenson's archive.
Emilia Wickstead's AW24 collection was inspired by the photographs of Garry Winogrand and Ken Russell, capturing the essence of rebellious teddy girls in East London and their glamorous Italian immigrant counterparts in America.
The collection features a tapestry of archetypes, with sequinned bias-cut dresses, oversized Prince of Wales check tailoring, and puffy-floral jacquard trousers and polo tops. The look is more laid-back and languid, with streamer-fringed dresses and leather pleated skirts, and a collaboration with British heritage shoemaker Grenson on the Grenda loafer.
The Grenda loafer features a trailing elongated tassel, fringing, and a welted platform sole, referencing both men's and women's styles in Grenson's archive.
Emilia Wickstead can always be counted on for a Google-immediately cinematic or photographic reference (hello spring/summer 2024's allusion to Lynchian home furnishings and the mob wife aesthetic-deflecting wardrobe of Robert De Niro's mafia head honcho character Ace Rothstein in Casino ). London Fashion Week always attracts crowds of tribalistic fashion girl gangs, from Chopova Lowena's carabiner kilt-clad goths to Simone Rocha's coven of tulle-swathed romantics, so it's fortuitous that for autumn/winter 2024, Wickstead was captivated by the photographs of Garry Winogrand, who in the mid-'60s and '70s lensed groups of stylish and societally diverse New York women, plus Ken Russell's 1955 images of rebellious loafer-toting and hair-quaffed teddy girls, captured posing on crumbling East End bomb sites and at fun fairs in Plaistow. TL;DR?
• Emilia Wickstead's AW24 collection was inspired by the photographs of Garry Winogrand and Ken Russell, capturing the essence of rebellious teddy girls in London and their unique style.• The collection features a mix of sequinned bias-cut dresses, oversized Prince of Wales check tailoring, and puffy-floral jacquard trousers and polo tops, blending different characters and time periods.
• Wickstead's "tapestry of archetypes" transcends nostalgia and subversion, drawing on the bygone glamour of Italian immigrants in America and the boyish beauty of teddy-girl gangs in East London.
• The collection includes exuberant shimmering sequinned pencil skirts and dark denim, showcasing a more laid-back and languid style.
• In collaboration with British heritage shoemaker Grenson, Wickstead has created the Grenda loafer, featuring a trailing elongated tassel, fringing, and a welted platform sole, which references both men'
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